My girlfriend and me went to Rinca in March 2005. Some newly established airplane company (can`t remember the name) took us to Labuanbajo at a much better price than Merpati.
Compared to Bali, the hotels are really lowbrow, but you will get a double room for around 80 000 rupiah in the low season.
We have stayed at a couple of different hotels.
Chez Felix.
+a bit away from the Imam who starts his day at 5 a.m. with the loudest most distorted p.a.-system in the world.
+nice, family owned, really friendly staff, speaks good english.
+great views
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-a bit away from the town center
Hotel Gardena
+In the middle of town
+good food
+nice views
-the aforementioned Imam wakes you up at 5 a.m.
Kanawa Beach
+your own cottage at the beach.
+fantastic snorkling
+ if you like fish
-1 hour from town (free boat service 2(?) times a day).
-if you don`t like fish.
We had one night at Golo Hilltop that was disasterus, but others have had a good time there, so we were probably unlucky.
If you enjoy snorkeling (I had a close encounter with a large black tip reef shark - wonderful) I would go for Kanawa Beach. Otherways I would recommend Chez Felix.
Oh! You were asking about lizards...
We have been using Reefseekers twice to Rinca, and while actually a dive center, you can combine diving-snorkelling trips with tours on Rinca. They focus on enviremental issues, have good equipment, good staff and very good food (if you like curry).
If you ever planned on doing scuba diving - this is the time.
Hope this will help you a bit. Just ask if there if anything is unclear (I am drooling with envy here in wet winter Norway and hope to come to Bali in june).
